How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Any questions or suggestions regarding restorations
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hanov0
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by hanov0 » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 15:48

Hi Neek

While its disasembled do a port match on those heads, Edelcrocks need it.
Chevy gurus building Ford stuff :lol:
Cheers
Hano'

For custom Aluminum work www.saicperformance.com

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V-Hatchi
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by V-Hatchi » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 17:00

I didn't see CBB's 2nd comment. Oops ! :lol:

You've got me curious though. 8O

Good afternoon Hano,
Your comment is an interesting one !
Once again I've made an assumption, and that is that the ports would be matched !
In fact, to be honest, it never occurred to me to check!
How does one check that the ports match, or should I look it up ?

I've added it to my list of homework to do ! :lol:

LOL at the Chevy gurus comment. :lol:
''Outside, it's America''

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hanov0
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by hanov0 » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 17:35

That black line around your ports is the part thats in the way.
Check with your gaskets. Should be close.
Cheers
Hano'

For custom Aluminum work www.saicperformance.com

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V-Hatchi
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by V-Hatchi » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 22:05

Hi Hano,

LOL, when I read port matching initially, I immediately assumed flow testing ! :lol:

Now I know exactly what you mean. :D

Yes, they did match ! :D

I checked both the intake and exhaust ports when I initially installed the heads.

The current exhaust gaskets have +/-1mm of black exhaust dirt on them. :D

I like your homework coz it's easy and takes 2 seconds.

I don't like Tony's coz it's taking hours to try and create a simple calculation. :lol:

On the subject of previous mistakes, and overall checking, the following link is a useful read :

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarti ... ewall.html

On the subject of cranks, I think the 4m is pre-1980's engines and the 4ma is the later models.
I don't think Villain will have a problem.

:D
''Outside, it's America''

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C-Body Barge
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by C-Body Barge » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 22:55

Hi Neek I was just reading the link you posted and they cover the 28 oz verse 50oz flywheel balancing if I read it correctly this was for the 302 motors I have copy and past the relevant part of the article

28 ounces versus 50 ounces


We've seen this one time and again. Small-block Fords, which are externally balanced, have a given offset balance that mandates a compatible harmonic balancer, crankshaft, and flywheel. Offset balances are 28 and 50 ounces, respectively. Prior to 1982, 302ci engines had a 28-ounce offset balance, which exists outside of any dynamic balancing you may do during an engine build. When reciprocating mass weight increased in 1982 with the 5.0L High Output engines, offset balance increased to 50 ounces.

The mistake comes when you install a 28-ounce balancer or flywheel on a 50-ounce offset balance crankshaft, and vice versa. When you are amassing parts for a small-block Ford, remember the 28/50-ounce difference. It will save you a lot of grie



Read more: http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarti ... z1kPXNi7LE


They dont how ever explain how you are to know the difference between the 2 ?
Hot rodders recycle, where's those prius' going when the greenies have a new fad.

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V-Hatchi
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by V-Hatchi » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 23:11

Hi CBB,

LOL, after I posted my comment about the crank, I couldn't remember where I'd read it !! :lol:

I've never ever come across these markings before :!: :?:

It's funny that you mention the lack of an explanation.
I find that time and time again with regard to different subjects.
Current subject = how to calculate the Dynamic compression ratio.
I can get the answer no problem, but I'm still trying to see how it is calculated exactly.
Couple more hours and I should have cracked it. 8O
''Outside, it's America''

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V-Hatchi
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by V-Hatchi » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 23:13

One consolation about the balance weights is that a crank balance will determine if it's out of balance.

Mind you, that's a huge nuisance if the wrong parts have been unknowingly ordered ! :cry:
''Outside, it's America''

Tony69
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by Tony69 » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 23:26

V-Hatchi wrote:Hi CBB,

LOL, after I posted my comment about the crank, I couldn't remember where I'd read it !! :lol:

I've never ever come across these markings before :!: :?:

It's funny that you mention the lack of an explanation.
I find that time and time again with regard to different subjects.
Current subject = how to calculate the Dynamic compression ratio.
I can get the answer no problem, but I'm still trying to see how it is calculated exactly.
Couple more hours and I should have cracked it. 8O
Dont stress over the calculations, if you intend running it on 95 unleaded, tell your cam manufacturer you are running 91 gasoline with ally heads, your alitutude..etc and ask what is a safe static compression for the cam you have.

In America they use AKI to grade fuel and I pretty sure we use RON.
93RON = 89AKI
95RON = 91AKI
....to the best of my knowledge.

So if an American dude says "95 is fine" and you use 95, you'll probably detonate.
Also, keep in mind that the 95 you get at the local garage isnt always truly 95.
Play it safe, not sorry.

Tony69
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Location: Northcliff, JHB

Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by Tony69 » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 23:36

The tricky thing about calculating dynamic compression is that some guys calculate it using the advertised duration of the cam but most use the 0.050" lift duration.

I honestly dont know which is correct, but to me it makes more sense to use the advertised duration, since you dont start building compression until the valves are fully closed.

Forget the calculations and just do a compression test after the engine is fully broken in, for most engines 160-180psi is good, but varies from engine to engine & this will increase with ally heads. Rather spend your time researching what the ideal cylinder pressure is for your engine. Hano should be able to help you with that. When you test it & if its too high, just degree the cam.

Just because you cant hear detonation, doesnt mean its not there, but there are ways to check for it. Lets rather discuss that once youre at that stage.

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V-Hatchi
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Re: How to rebuild a V8 - D.I.Y.

Post by V-Hatchi » Tue 24 Jan 2012, 23:45

Howzit Tony,

No I'm not stressing about my static CR and the chances of detonation.

The whole subject of SCR and DCR and detonation etc is seriously addictive, and now that I've started learning it, I'll see it through.

I'm only at the 'reading stage'. Once I get to the 'digesting what I've read stage', I can apply the newly found knowledge.

The fact that I can manipulate the DCR by changing the cam timing blows me away at this stage. I.E. it's fascinating. 8O

My degree wheel arrives tomorrow or Thursday, so that will definitely help. :D

What's annoying me is website after website gives calculators which give answers, but I want the ''behind the scenes'' calculations which give those answers.
E.G. I can clearly see that rod length and Intake valve closure at ABDC degrees play a huge part, but I'm not getting the maths to work. Yet ! :twisted:

Laterz.
:D
''Outside, it's America''

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